Details and Instructions
And just so you'll know... Both ends of every line get full attention. My iPhone didn't take the best pictures but the best I can get. The left side shows the chamfer after cutting and the right shows the clean double flare. No cuts, splits or shavings.
There may be a need to slightly “adjust” some of these lines after shipping. Don’t be concerned if any of these lines are slightly off. During shipment, these lines may have been altered a little but the NiCopp lines are forgiving and you can easily tweak these lines to fit. Most of these lines are not direct reproductions of the factory patterns. I have taken liberty in re-routing some of them for looks and simplicity.
Master Cylinder to Proportioning Valve - I recommend removing the two nuts that mount the Proportioning Valve to the bottom of the Master Cylinder and thread the lower end of the new line in most of the way. Then mount the top line nut most of the way into the MC. Remount the PV to the brake booster and then tighten the two line nuts. That will get rid of some of the frustration that such a short, unforgiving line creates.
F2F and F2R
Firewall to Front and Rear - These two lines, if shipped, will have one large radius “shipping bend” each that need to be removed. To do so, hold the 90˚corner on a flat table top with both upper and lower portions of the line pointing upwards. Hold the 90˚corner securely to the table while holding the straight side of the 90˚ vertically and slowly rotating the other half of the line downward until the line is flat on the table. You may have to over bend the line slightly to get it straight. Note: The NiCopp line strengthens every time you bend it so try to get the line straight the first try. It will be harder to keep wiggles out of the line of you have to go back over it several times. (The line may be bent one one side of the 90˚ or the other.)
Wheel Cylinder left and right - You may have to flex (in or out) the large radius bend slightly to fit. (That is there for fine tuning.)